The second phase of a superb refurbishment of London’s Smithfield meat market, which brings back to life all its colour and technical exuberance and keeps a leading UK market in the heart of the capital, is now underway.

The original market was completed in 1868 to the design of the City Corporation’s architect, Sir Horace Jones, who was also responsible for Leadenhall Market and Tower bridge. Since that time the internal arrangement has remained unaltered. work on Phase I (East Market) of the refurbishment project began in 1992 and was completed early in 1996 at a cost of £30 million.

The restored Victorian frame encases the most up-to-date meat market in Europe. After nearly 130 years the cast iron gaters were found to have 17 layers of paint. These were all removed, the iron repaired where necessary, and re-painting carried out in a contemporary palette of viridian, magenta and violet, with some gold embellishment.

Contemporary glass and steel have been introduced in the modernisation. This was partly to meet the requirements for unimpeded views, for example along Buyers’ walk and, partly to enable the canopies to provide transparent protection for personnel and produce during loading and unloading. The new market is almost an operating theatre in its cleanliness.

A parade of traditional scarlet telephone boxes lines Grand Avenue, the central thoroughfare. In the middle, the market’s centrepiece a large four faced clock of 1870 hangs from the roof after being thoroughly restored and restarted in 1995.

Smithfield began centuries ago as a market for live animals on a field outside the City Wall. Ultimately there came the Metropolitan Meat and Poultry Market Act 1860 after which the livestock market, and slaughterhouse were exiled to Islington and Jones started building.

The basement was originally built as a reception area for meat. Converting this to car parking will shortly allow it to accommodate about 700 vehicles.

The BSE scare has seen Smithfield provide a better market in game and specialist poultry. Smithfield handles about 100,000 tonnes of meat a year, 8% of the national tonnage, although this is way down from the peak 500,000 tonnes in the 1960’s.

Trading starts at 4am and is mostly over by 9am. the pubs and cafe’s also open at 4am with the Hope, the Fox and Anchor and Ferrari’s being long–time favourites of the corporate breakfast set.

During the day the market acts as a focal point for many of the City’s and Clerkenwell’s new residents, with restaurants and brasseries such as Mustards, Dome, Café du Marche, Abbaye, Rudland & Studds Oyster Bar and the well thought-of Smithfield Tandoori.

Should the market one day close, its passing would be greatly mourned by Londoners who appreciate its unique atmosphere. A much vaunted Covent Garden-style redevelopment is, at this stage, unlikely given the considerable grant aid that is currently being used to create modern temperature- controlled enclosed shops for the traders to work from.

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